Riding the big wave

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Big wave surfers have learned to prepare for the big occasions. You are not born a big wave rider, but you may become one. They share the commandments of the big wave surfer. What's on their minds when it's time to paddle for the biggest rides of their lives? The problem is that, if you wipeout, you will take the entire set on the head.
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Nazaré probably is the most powerful beach break. The Portuguese big wave surfing spot is as exciting as it will test your limits - as a surfer and as a human. A surfer rides a huge wave off the coast of Nazare, Portugal. is considered the biggest wave ever ridden, topping out at 80 feet (24 meters) off.
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Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves which are at least 20 feet 6. A larger, longer board allows a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed. In , big wave surfers such as Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner introduced a cross over sport called tow-in surfing.
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